Classic Mountaineering

As Reinhold Messner said: “classic alpinism will never die.” Its the simplest, most natural way to climb a mountain. You choose the most evident line to a summit that has caught your imagination.

In the Alps there are eighty two 4000m peaks and hunderds more slightly lower, some fairly non-technical and others that challenge even the most accomplished alpininst. Every mountaineer or aspiring mountaineer can find a challenge suited to their abilities and motivations in the Alps.

The N ridge of the Weisshorn

Some good non-technical summits I recommend, Grade F to PD:

  • Gran Paradiso
  • Domes de Miage traverse
  • Aiguille du Tour
  • Alphubel
  • Weissmies

These routes are done on a 1:3 guide-client ratio.

Early morning view on the Weissmies traverse

Medium difficulty routes I enjoy guiding, Grade PD+ to AD

  • Aiguille d’Entreves traverse
  • Arete des Cosmiques
  • Aiguille de Rochefort
  • NE ridge of L’M
  • Aiguille du Peigne normal route
  • Finsteraarhorn
  • Monch
  • Breithorn half traverse
  • Mt. Blanc de Cheillon traverse
  • Dufourspitze

1:2 guide-client ratio is normal when these routes are in condition

Taking in the views on the summit of the Finsteraarhorn

Difficult, high quality alpine routes, Grade AD+ to D+:

  • Aiguille de Bionassay traverse to Mont-Blanc
  • Kuffner Ridge, Mont-Maudit
  • Aiguilles du Diables traverse
  • Frendo Spur, Aiguille du Midi
  • All ridges on l’Aiguille Verte
  • Forbes Arete on the Chardonnet
  • Zinalrothorn Traverse SW-N
  • Dent Blanche S ridge
  • All ridges on Weisshorn
  • Mittelegi Ridge on the Eiger
  • Schreckhorn normal route
  • S ridge of Salbitschijen

1:1 guide-client ratio on these routes


Contact me

Arete de Grand Montets, Aiguille Verte